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Veterinary Manual

Find information on animal health topics, written for the veterinary professional.

Injuries and Accidents of Pet Birds

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Injuries and Accidents of Pet Birds

By Teresa L. Lightfoot, DVM, DABVP (Avian), Chair, Avian and Exotics Department, Florida Veterinary Specialists

Pet birds have an innate desire to try to hide any illness or injury. In the wild, showing signs of illness increases the chance they will be attacked by other animals. Thus, any behavior that is out of the ordinary is a sign that your bird may be ill. In particular, if you notice limping, the inability to move the wings properly, any unusual discharge, any changes in droppings, or a general lack of physical activity, you should seek veterinary advice or care promptly. If your bird is huddled, lethargic, unresponsive, or lying on the bottom of the cage, you have an emergency. Alert your veterinarian and transport the bird immediately.

When a bird has a “bleeding” emergency, it is important to distinguish between obvious active bleeding (such as from the wing, beak, or foot) and blood on the cage or on the bird with no active bleeding. Continued bleeding requires immediate veterinary intervention, whereas bleeding that has stopped is best left undisturbed. However, even if bleeding has ceased, it is wise to take your bird in for an examination.

If your bird is in respiratory distress, your veterinarian will place the bird in an incubator with oxygen. Shock and infection are of concern in birds that have penetrating or extensive wounds.

Injuries should be treated with the goal of the bird’s survival first and treatment of the traumatized area second. For example, a bird that has been struggling for hours with its leg band caught—and that may possibly have a fractured bone—is in more danger of dying from stress related to the prolonged struggling than from the fracture.

First Aid Kit for Pet Birds

Phone Numbers

Phone numbers are by far the most important thing any emergency kit can contain. Have an alternative number recorded in case your regular avian veterinarian is not available. Find the closest emergency clinic to you that will treat birds and keep their number handy as well.

Flour

Flour can be placed in the bottom of a shoe box or comparable container. A bird with a bleeding toenail can be placed in the box to walk around. This will not require restraint and therefore will not elevate the bird’s blood pressure and cause more bleeding.

File

Birds can be acclimated to the use of a nail file to take just the very sharp points off of their nails. Unless they are diseased or malnourished, birds’ nails do not overgrow in length, but the needle sharp tips can get caught in clothing or carpeting, and can be uncomfortable for the owner.

Hemostat

A hemostat is a medical clamp referred to as “forceps.” A substitute is tweezers or thumb forceps with “teeth” to catch hold of what you are trying to grasp. Forceps are good for unknotting string wound around small feet.

Scissors

Scissors are great for trimming broken, mature feathers. It is not recommended that inexperienced bird owners trim broken, bleeding quills as the quill may bleed more profusely.

Cotton swabs

Cotton swabs can help control bleeding. They are also best for cleaning stains off of feathers and skin (such as lipstick or oils) and for swabbing out lower beaks (such as food debris in baby birds).

Gauze pads

Gauze pads can also help control bleeding. Use only sterile pads on open wounds. Small size pads are easier to use but may be difficult to find.

Bandage material

Bleeding emergencies often warrant the use of pressure wraps to aid in the application of direct pressure to open cuts, abrasions, and fractures. Do not apply a wrap if you are uncertain of the proper method. Most bleeding skin wounds will clot on their own or be “protected” by the bird from further injury. Good materials that won’t adhere to the plumage are vet wrap (which clings to itself like cling wrap), roll gauze, cellophane tape, and some masking tapes.

Toothpick

A rounded-end toothpick can be used by experienced bird owners to remove debris from the nostrils. (This type of emergency can wait until the next day when you can consult your avian veterinarian).

Disinfectant

Many disinfectants are available. Only use topical disinfectants on open wounds and skin. Hydrogen peroxide and dilute chlorhexidine are safe and effective if used away from the mouth, ear canals, and eyes. Do not use salves, ointments, petroleum jelly, or other thick or oily substances on birds without veterinary recommendation. These products may matt the plumage and prevent the bird from insulating itself.

Syringe

A 3-milliliter syringe without a needle can be used to flush small wounds with water or dilute disinfectant and also to “syringe feed” a bird that will not eat. It is strongly recommended not to force feed a bird unless specifically instructed to do so by your avian veterinarian. Many birds will inhale food into the lungs if fed in this manner and this may cause respiratory infections.

Restraining towel

A washcloth is good for most cockatiels, small conures, and small parakeets. Big, fluffy bath towels are good for large Amazons, macaws, and cockatoos.

Hospital area

The carrying cage used to take the bird to the veterinarian often makes a perfect “bed” for the ill bird. It can be covered with a towel or blanket on all but one side to keep out drafts.

A spare bathroom is a good area in which to place the cage of a sick bird. The heating vents can be adjusted to more quickly elevate the temperature, providing additional warmth. This area also has less foot traffic and fewer disturbances.

Heat source

A heating pad (set only on low, producing a temperature safe for skin contact) and insulated with 2 towels above and 1 towel between the pad and cage can be used to keep most small cages between 75 to 85°F (24 to 29°C). Alternatively, a shaded light bulb (60 to 100 watts) can be placed outside the cage (far enough away that the bird cannot reach the shade or bulb). Cover both the cage and the shaded light bulb with a towel or sheet being sure that the towel or sheet does not come in direct contact with the hot bulb. The heat from the lighted bulb will gently warm the cage area.

Thermometer

Remote probe digital thermometers sold in electronics stores and photographic thermometers measure from 60 to 120°F (16 to 49°C) and can be safely used to monitor the room temperature. An ill bird should be kept at 80 to 90°F (27 to 32°C) until it is taken to your avian veterinarian.

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